The pastrami sandwich's origins trace back to ancient Turkish "pastirma," a cured and spiced meat. This technique traveled to Eastern Europe, evolving into Romanian "pastramă," typically made from goose. When Jewish immigrants arrived in late 19th-century New York City, they brought this culinary tradition.
Beef, being more accessible, replaced goose, and the name "pastrami" emerged. Sussman Volk, a Lithuanian immigrant and butcher, is credited with popularizing the pastrami sandwich around 1887. He sold thinly sliced, hot pastrami on rye, often with mustard and a kosher dill pickle, from his shop. This transformed into one of New York's pioneering delis, solidifying pastrami on rye as an iconic American culinary staple.
William Sidney Mount
The Raffle (Raffling for the Goose), 1837
Oil on mahogany | The MET 97.36
A painting by William Sidney Mount, America’s leading mid-nineteenth-century painter of narrative scenes. Mount depicted various aspects of his rural Long Island life around Stony Brook, New York. His seemingly simple, good-natured subjects, like 'The Raffle (Raffling for the Goose),' often subtly address complex social and political issues of the time. For example, the impromptu lottery in 'The Raffle' has been interpreted as an allusion to the widespread food shortages brought on by the country’s financial panic of 1837, revealing deeper societal concerns beneath a charming surface.
Historical Significance:
In Romania and other parts of Eastern Europe, goose was a common and traditional meat for making pastramă. This was often due to the prevalence of goose farming and its suitability for the curing process. When Jewish immigrants from these regions came to the United States in the late 19th century, they brought this tradition with them.
Shift to Beef:
Upon arriving in New York City, these immigrants found that beef, particularly cuts like brisket or navel, was more readily available and more affordable than goose. This economic reality led to the gradual shift from goose to beef as the primary meat for pastrami in the burgeoning American delis. The term "pastrami" itself is thought to have come from "pastramă," possibly influenced by "salami."
Jacob van Strij, Landscape with Cattle, ca. 1800
Oil on wood | The MET 91.26.8
This striking painting, though bearing Aelbert Cuyp's signature and long attributed to him, is now believed to be by an imitator. Cuyp's work was highly sought after in the 18th century, inspiring many artists to emulate his style. Jacob van Strij, one of the most skilled of these followers, is very likely the true painter of this piece. Clues pointing to an 18th-century origin include the thickly applied paint (impasto) on the clouds, simplified highlights, and the use of intense greens and blues. Additionally, details appear more as picturesque accents than precise renderings. You'll also notice several motifs borrowed directly from Cuyp's own compositions; for instance, the background on the right is drawn from his famous "Salmon Fishing" painting in the Mauritshuis.
Preparation Differences:
While the core process of curing, seasoning, and often smoking remains, there are some subtle differences in preparing goose pastrami compared to beef. Goose breasts are considerably smaller than beef briskets, which means they generally require a shorter brining time—often around 4 days, compared to a week or more for beef. The fat content and texture of goose also differ from beef, leading to a unique flavor and mouthfeel.
From Modern Revival:
While beef pastrami became the dominant form in American delis, goose pastrami is experiencing a renewed interest among chefs and home cooks. Some hunters, for instance, are making pastrami from wild goose breasts. It's seen as a way to explore different flavor profiles and honor the historical roots of the dish. Modern recipes often involve tenderizing the goose breasts, brining them in a salt, sugar, and spice mixture, applying a peppery rub (often with coriander), and then smoking them until tender.
Farming geese offers a versatile and often sustainable agricultural endeavor, providing meat, eggs, and even weed control. Geese are hardy birds, well-suited to various climates and typically requiring less intensive management than some other poultry. They are excellent foragers, thriving on pasture and reducing the need for supplemental feed, making them an economical choice for small farms and homesteads.
Their diet primarily consists of grasses, weeds, and insects, which also makes them effective biological weeders in orchards and gardens. Goose meat is dark, flavorful, and rich, often sought after for specialty markets and holiday meals. Females are good layers, producing large, nutritious eggs. Beyond their practical uses, geese can also serve as effective "guard animals," their territorial nature and loud honking providing a deterrent against predators. With proper care and space, farming geese can be a rewarding and productive venture.
Flavor Profile:
Goose pastrami typically has a richer, more gamey flavor than its beef counterpart, with a distinctive richness from the goose fat. The traditional pastrami spice blend of black pepper, coriander, garlic, and other spices complements the goose meat beautifully.
In Essence:
Goose pastrami is not just a niche alternative; it's a foundational element in the story of pastrami, showcasing the adaptability and culinary ingenuity of immigrants who brought their cherished traditions to a new land. hits to indie gems, we've got our finger on the pulse of the music world.
Jan Weenix
Still Life with Goose and Game before a Country Estate, 1685, Oil on canvas | NGA 2004.39.1
Jan Weenix's imposing game piece is set in an imaginary formal garden, reminiscent of 17th-century Dutch patrician estates. Weenix masterfully renders textures, evident in the feathers of the goose and fur of the hare, against a plinth adorned with a relief sculpture of the Holy Family.
This still life is rich with Christian symbolism relating to death and resurrection. The sleeping Christ Child below a rose signifies the Virgin's sorrows, while the calendula (Dutch for "death flower") reinforces themes of mortality. A startled dove escaping the goose further symbolizes the soul's release after death, suggesting this iconography was likely a patron's specific request.
Weenix, a renowned Dutch game painter, likely trained under his father, Jan Baptist Weenix. Distinguished by more elegant figures and refined brushwork, Weenix specialized in sophisticated still lifes for the Amsterdam elite after 1680 and later served as court painter to the Elector Palatine Johann Wilhelm von der Pflaz.
Mustard pot with cover and stand, 1745 - 55
French, Chantilly | Soft-paste porcelain | MMA 54.147.1a, b, .2
Pastrami sandwiches are typically assembled by layering the thinly sliced pastrami on the bread and adding condiments, cheese, and pickles as desired. The sandwich can be served cold or heated, depending on personal preference.
In addition to the classic pastrami sandwich, there are variations like the Reuben sandwich, which includes sauerkraut and Swiss cheese, and the Rachel sandwich, which substitutes pastrami with turkey or corned beef.
Pastrami sandwiches are commonly found in delis, sandwich shops, and Jewish-style delicatessens. They have gained widespread popularity due to their delicious flavor and satisfying combination of textures.
Mustard pot and stand, 1752-53
French, Vincennes | Soft-paste porcelain | MMA 54.147.25a, b, .26
Curing Pastrami involves several steps to achieve the distinctive flavor and texture of this beloved deli meat. Here's a general outline of the process:
Who makes the best pastrami in the US? It's subjective and can vary depending on personal taste and preferences. However, there are several renowned establishments known for their exceptional pastrami sandwiches. Here are a few establishments that are often recognized for their delicious pastrami:
Katz's Delicatessen (New York, NY): Katz's Deli is an iconic New York City institution that has been serving pastrami since 1888. They are famous for their hand-carved, thick-cut pastrami sandwiches served on rye bread.
Langer's Delicatessen (Los Angeles, CA): Langer's is a family-owned deli that has been operating since 1947. They are widely regarded for their pastrami sandwiches, particularly their signature #19 sandwich with pastrami, Swiss cheese, coleslaw, and Russian dressing on rye bread.
Kenny & Ziggy's Delicatessen (Houston, TX): Kenny & Ziggy's is a popular deli in Houston, Texas, known for its authentic Jewish deli fare, including their renowned pastrami sandwiches. They offer a wide variety of deli favorites, including a classic pastrami on rye.
The Carnegie Deli (New York, NY): Although the original Carnegie Deli closed in 2016, its legacy lives on through licensed locations and products. The Carnegie Deli was known for its massive pastrami sandwiches piled high with tender meat.
Capriotti's Sandwich Shop (Various locations): While not a traditional Jewish deli, Capriotti's is a sandwich chain that gained popularity for its hot pastrami sandwiches, especially their signature "The Bobbie" sandwich, which combines turkey, stuffing, cranberry sauce, and hot pastrami.
These are just a few examples, and there are numerous other notable delis and sandwich shops throughout the United States that serve excellent pastrami. It's always worth exploring local recommendations and reviews in your specific area to find the best pastrami near you.
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